Mechanical E-cigarette Mods

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Mechanical Mods are internally, the most basic device you can get. They have no internal wires or circuit boards. They are composed of a tube that holds your battery, a top cap that makes contact with the positive side of your battery, and a bottom cap that makes contact with the negative side of your battery. Now the bottom cap on most mechanical mods will usually have a locking mechanism. This allows you to keep the mod in a mode where it will not fire your battery when you are not meaning to use it. When locked, inside a mechanical mod, the battery will be able to make contact with the top cap but not the bottom one. When unlocked, you are able to push the button on the bottom of your mech mod and by doing this you are pushing up the negative contact that is on your bottom cap to make contact with the negative side of your battery. This completes the circuit and allows current to be pushed up through your battery and into your coil, to heat it up and vaporize your e-juice.

But hold on, you are probably wondering, “If they are so basic, then why are they meant for advanced users?” Well that is a good question, A+ for you if you thought about that. Mechanical mods have no internal processor to keep your voltage at a set level. So in Layman’s terms your battery will have a voltage output starting at 4.2 volts and then will slowly deplete with use. The lack of a processor means there is no internal protection for over-depleting a battery which can lead to battery failure. This lack of a circuit also means there is no protection if your atomizer has a short. The lack of these two protections can make the mod dangerous to use if you are not educated throughly on battery safety and electricity. Therefore we recommend them for advanced users only.

Regulated E-cigarette Mods

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Pretty much any other e-cig device you see out there that isn’t a mechanical mod is a regulated mod. All this means is that regulated mods have internal circuitry. These types of mods include standard voltage mods, variable voltage mods, variable wattage mods and variable voltage and wattage mods. They do have the appropriate circuitry to protect from, say continually firing a faulty battery and melting it. Your regulated mod will shut down if something is wrong with your connections, which makes them a newbie friendly device. Some of these regulated mods also have a built-in voltage meter and Ohm reader which become very handy as a teaching tool for those getting into the advance e-cigarettes. Regulated mods can get a little more advanced as you get in to variable voltage and wattage devices. If you are using one of these devices, or are thinking of trying one out, just make sure you look up Ohm’s Law and understand the relationship between resistance, current, voltage and wattage.

Dripping Atomizer

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Dripping is an altogether different type of experience. You have to build your own coils for the atomizer, wick it yourself, and make sure that it’s affixed to a battery that is able to fire the atomizer at the given oHms that your coil is built to. Different styles of coil yield different types of vapor, in both taste and vapor production. Different wicking materials can also have an impact on your flavor and vapor experience. There is no truly “best way” to build a dripping atomizer. As with many aspects of vaping, it mostly comes down to personal preference.

E-cigarette Tanks

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A tank is a heating element using the same basic principals that you would with any attachable heating element on an electronic cigarette. Though you give up the more direct way of vaping, like the increased throat hit and flavor, you gain a more hassle free experience. In addition, since tanks namely clearomizers are more common, there are also more of a variety to choose from.

Dripping VS Tanks

Primarily, the use of Cartomizers (although I didn’t know that term at the time) was my only exposure to the industry. After I was hired at Mt. Baker Vapor, my knowledge rapidly grew, and I moved on to clearomizers. When I first made the switch to a tank, my mind was blown. It was a ‘Holy Crap! This is what vaping can be like?’ moment for me. As I learned more and more about the various forms and functions of different styles of tanks, I quickly became an enthusiast.

Then, I discovered dripping. For me, dripping is the quintessential vaping experience. Huge clouds, great flavor, and infinite customization when it comes to the style of coils you can use. I’ve been dripping now for about 6 months, and I can definitely say that it is the experience for me. That being said, it’s not the experience for everyone. Let’s talk about some of the differences between tanks and dripping.

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Dripping is an altogether different type of experience. You have to build your own coils for the atomizer, wick it yourself, and make sure that it’s affixed to a battery that is able to fire the atomizer at the given oHms that your coil is built to. Different styles of coil yield different types of vapor, in both taste and vapor production. Different wicking materials can also have an impact on your flavor and vapor experience. There is no truly “best way” to build a dripping atomizer. As with many aspects of vaping, it mostly comes down to personal preference.

About Nicotine Strengths

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E-Liquid strength is almost always measured in milligrams (weight) per milliliter (volume); expressed as mg/mL. Often the “per mL” (/mL) is dropped in conversation or informal writing (and even on many labels). E-Liquid, or E-Juice, comes in many strengths depending largely on the manufacturer, sometimes even as high as 36 or 42mg/mL. NicVape produces E-Liquid in 0, 3, 6, 12, and 18mg/mL, for example. We believe this provides just the right gradations and range of strengths for our consumers. But, how do you choose what’s right for you? Understanding what the strengths mean to you can make the difference between a positive experience and a negative one with vaping, especially for first time vapers.

If you are experienced with nicotine products, it helps to understand how that product currently works on your body and what dosage you are getting from it before trying vaping. Nicotine can be absorbed through the skin (like a transdermal nicotine patch), in the mouth (such as with chewing tobacco or nicotine gum), or through the lungs by inhalation. Inhalation, as with vaping or smoking, provides the fastest effect on your body.

When it comes to nicotine absorption, vaping compares most readily, although loosely, to smoking. You can find out how much nicotine is in a cigarette, and you can find out the absorption rate (not all the nicotine in the cigarette ends up in your body). The strength of e-liquid is measured in mg/mL. Theoretically it is possible to determine how much e-liquid you are vaping. However, differences in devices and the rate at which you vaping a set amount of e-liquid, lead to big differences in how the nicotine is transferred to your body. If you are a “dripper” using an advanced atomizer (RBA or RDA), 3mg/mL may give you the same effect you’d get from 6 or 12mg/mL e-liquid vaped from a starter kit or cartomizer, like an eGo pen-style vaporizer.

THE NASTY YET COMPLETELY FIXABLE TRUTH ABOUT COIL GUNK

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If you have been a part of the vape scene for some time now, or even if you are brand new, then you have most likely heard a ton of different things about vaping.  Some of the information is correct, but unfortunately there is an abundance of INCORRECT information available.  Here at TVH, we try our best to help funnel some of the confusion and misinformation that is commonly said about vaping.

One of the subjects that has been around for as long as we can remember is the issue of coils getting gunked up.

This problem has had many names in the past.  One of the most commonly misused ways to describe this issue is “My wick is burnt”.   We can’t tell you how many times we have heard this term used in the stores, and honestly, we use to say this all the time too.

The truth is most of your standard clearomizer tanks systems use silica for a wicking solution, and silica is semi burn resistant.  So, it’s almost impossible to “burn up your wick”.  Yes, it gets scorched, however, the silica itself isn’t “burnt up”.  The burnt taste from the gunked up coil is most likely the cause of the common saying, “my wick is burnt”.

The gunky, crusty, and nasty residue is a result of various ingredients used in almost all e-liquids.

It does NOT taste great, and it can be downright nasty at times.

Have no fear!  Here is some helpful information regarding this issue!

Most replacement heads/coils for clearomizers are pretty cheap. Most of us are ex- smokers and are aware of the average cost of most packs of smokes.  They are upwards of $5-$7 per pack.   Many of us smoked at least a pack a day.  Taking this into consideration, even if you have to replace your coil/head everyday it’s still cheaper than buying a pack of cancer sticks a day.  The average vapor gets 2-3 days per coil.  This all depends on the juice you vape, how much you vape, and at what wattage you vape at.  So, when put in proper perspective, it’s really not a huge deal to replace your coils more often.

Coils CAN be dry burned.  Dry burning is firing your device with your tank/atty attached in order to get your coils glowing red. (Tank must be empty) Then, blow directly onto your coils while you are pushing the button.  A pick of some sort can be used to lightly scrape off the build up that’s on the coils.  It literally just flakes right off.

Remember the wick inside is most likely semi burn resistant, so you will not burn up your wick.  This method works for tanks and clearomizers, but it is much easier when using a rebuildable atomizer which allows you to get better exposure to the coils.

(IF YOU ARE USING AN RDA WITH COTTON, YOU MUST REMOVE YOUR COTTON BEFORE YOU DRY BURN. *DRY BURNING WILL NOT WORK FOR CARTOMIZERS)